Hey guys!
Sorry for the long wait, I've just come
back from a week of vacation and have now finally found some free time.
Why did I have a week of vacation? China's National Holiday is the 1st
of October, because Mao proclaimed the People's Republic of China on 1
October 1949. Most people have a week off work/study, except for those
who work in stores since these don't close during holidays or on
Sundays. The result of this free week, also called Golden Week, is that
millions of Chinese travel to their hometowns or go visit friends. Of
course I also took this opportunity and went to visit Jana, a friend of
mine, in Nanjing.
I got on a train on 1 October at 5 in
the afternoon. Because of the masses of people travelling, I was only
able to get a ticket for the 硬座 yingzuo, hard seater class. In Chinese
trains there are 4 classes of tickets. 硬座, with rows of five seats,
three on one side and two on the other, 软座 ruanzuo, soft seater, which
has a little more padding and space, 硬卧 yingwo, hard sleeper, with bunk
beds in an open cabin and 软卧, soft sleeper, with comparments of four
beds. Check
this website
if you want to know more about the differences. So I prepared myself
mentally for 16 hours of sitting in an uncomfortable seat. What I got
was luckily not that bad at all. Of course the train was more than full,
but I had a window seat which meant that I could lean against the wall
to sleep. I actually got a few hours of sleep and arrived in Nanjing at 9
in the morning on 2 October. Jana thankfully picked me up from the
station and after a short metro ride we arrived at her campus. I have to
say that her campus is a lot nicer than mine, trees everywhere. It's
also a lot smaller, thus harder to get lost in.
After a
breakfast of dumplings we went to a beautiful park close to the campus
and later in the day after a well derserved nap we visited a scenic
garden and Nanjing's Confucius temple. The garden was beautiful and
somehow quite peaceful despite the inescapable crowds. They even hired
people to provide the appropriate musical background. The temple was not
so peaceful but still very beautiful. I learned a bit about Chinese
temple traditions. For example, it is common to tie pieces of cloth with
good wishes on them to tree branches. Also there was a small water
basin where visitors could light candles in the shape of water lilies.
Absolutely gorgeous. Naturally our visit ended with a small photo
session in front of the exit. As foreigners we do attract a lot of
looks, a phenomenon that a Chinese friend called 回头率很高, the rate of
heads turning is very high. It is not uncommon for locals to try and
surreptitiously take a picture of me, pretending they're looking at
something on their phone. It's always fun to call them out on it though,
since for one thing it surprises and delights them greatly that I can
speak Chinese and also I sometimes get to know new people this way.
The ambient music.
Xueye you cheng. Succeed in your studies.
Anyway, on with the show. On Friday we walked along the Nanjing
city wall. There were surprisingly few tourists there and we enjoyed the
relatively good air quality. The city wall is divided into separate
parts, with a separate ticket to be bought for every one of them.
Hilariously, there is also an "illegal" entrance to every part that
apparently all the locals know about and use in their masses. That way,
the city profits from tourism and the locals get to enjoy their city's
sights for free, not a bad strategy. In the evening we went to an
international bar which had music playing that I knew *_* I never
thought that YMCA by the Village People would someday make me this
happy.
Saturday we had a lazy day and in the evening went to visit the Jiming
temple. On our way there we made some new Chinese friends who were also
looking for the temple. The building was beautiful and we even got to
listen to a Buddhist "mass". There were about 100 people gathered in the
temple who were singing Sutras. With the sun setting and the sky slowly
turning darker, it was a perfectly harmonious end to the day. For
dinner we went to a restaurant serving Nanjing specialty food, which had
attracted a lot of people. Reserving a table is only common in very
fancy restaurants here, so the way this restaurant solved the problem of
seating people was to have every group get a number and then wait for
it to be called. A little strange at first, but efficient. The food by
the way was absolutely delicious.
The secret entrance.
On Sunday we decided to climb the 资金山 Zijin
Shan, Purple Mountain, a "mountain" of some 400m in the middle of
Nanjing. Jana invited some Chinese friends of hers to come with us and
the first struggle of the day consisted of us trying to find each other.
Turns out that her university has two campuses and her friends were
waiting for us at the other campus. After about two hours we finally
found each other at the foot of the mountain. It was a great hike and we
found some time to take pictures in a thousand different poses.
(换一个Pose! Another pose!) And of course we got stared at and loudly
commented on in Chinese. I try not to let it bother me, but sometimes
the incessant "look, a foreigner" gets tiring. Also I have discovered
that before going hiking in China, it's instrumental to check the air
quality. Had we done so on Sunday, we might have decided to change our
plans since the air quality in Nanjing on that day was "hazardous",
meaning that outdoor sports should be avoided. I should soon feel the
effects, on Monday I woke up with a cough that has stayed with me since.
Taking the chair lift back down. About 10 people waved at us and 5 were playing 小苹果, the hottest Chinese pop song at the moment.
On Monday we left the city and province and went to a lake in Anhui
to have a barbecue with a few of Jana's friends. It was wonderful to see
a truly blue sky again and breathe freely for a few hours. The scenery
was tainted a little bit by the heaps of trash left behind by other
people but nonetheless we had a great day.
Tuesday it
was already time for me to leave, after an all too short visit. My train
left at 8 in the morning and took me to Suzhou, where I had to change
trains. Due to holiday craziness, the only train that I had been able to
get a ticket for left at 8 in the evening, so I had a whole day to
explore Suzhou. I went to the Garden of the Master of Nets, a cleverly
designed building and garden complex where you never know what awaits
you when you turn a corner. I got lost a few times, but obviously had a
lot of fun doing so. Afterwards I visited Suzhou's zoo, which had
beautiful parts, like the tropical birds, and awful parts, like the lion
and tiger cages. I finally ended up in a park where I sat for about
four hours, occasionally talking to people who either wanted a picture
with me or just wanted to chat with a foreigner.
I am oddly fascinated by doorways in China. The above was taken in the garden, this one in the zoo.
Parrots!
The cage of horrors.
Sunset at Suzhou train station.
I arrived back in Xi'an at 9:20 in the morning on Wednesday, which meant that I was back at university just in time to participate in the second lesson of the day. I am now adjusting back to getting-up-at-8-life and trying to cure myself of this cough. Tea is my best friend. Also my bed.
Chinese Word of the Day: 口罩 kouzhao, mask. Pollution in Xi'an reached hazardous levels yesterday :( It's back to normal today though. A true rollercoaster ride of visibility and life quality.
Talk to you guys soon!